Monday, October 1, 2007

From Kigoma!




Finally! The power is on and off here. But it turns out that they have wireless at the JGI office we're working at. Andy and Jamie are on the way in ten minutes! They had to fight again to get on today's flight, but they made it! I'm so relieved. See my musings from the past two days below:


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I can’t believe I’m actually on this Precision Air turbo-prop on my way to Kigoma. It’s just me and Gabriel. We had to leave Andy and James in Dar. I’ll explain.

I had just posted my last blog entry about the wild ride, when Andy, Jaime, and Gabriel came downstairs to load the car with our copious luggage and equipment.

We made it to the airport, past security, right to the ticket counter. They checked all of our tickets and weighed our luggage. Because we have so much equipment (very little clothing, I swear), we were 30 kilos over. Then the fun began.

First, they wanted 60,000 shillings for the overage ($50). I only had 40,000, so Andy went out to get more from the ATM. While he was away, she informed me that we were now on standby. What? Standby, sir, you are on standby. I assured her that I wasn’t, but she just looked past me.

Andy came back with the money and then we were told that we could only take two bags, even though we had the money for all six.

We chose two bags (all of our equipment for the kids tomorrow, and Gabriel’s video equipment), and were told the rest would arrive tomorrow…all of our personal stuff.

Then, the supervisor came by and told us none of us could fly today. Too many people from yesterday have to be on today…whatever that meant. We just got bumped.
I basically got down on my knees, explained about the kids in Kigoma and all of our planning, and begged, implored, and cajoled her into letting two of us go. We decided that I had to be there as the facilitator, and that Gabriel should come to film the first day. We were allowed to bring two bags, so we chose the equipment. I’ll have nothing but the clothing on my back when we get to Kigoma.

Andy texted and said that they have tickets for tomorrow morning’s flight, but who knows. This is AFRICA! You have to smile and have a good time or you’ll just go insane. Maybe tomorrow…maybe not.

I’m sitting on this plane trying to figure out how I’ll deal with 30 Swahili-speaking students on my own while Gabriel films tomorrow. This will be a challenge, but I can’t wait!

We miss Andy and Jaime already, and we’ve only been in the air for an hour.

More when we land.

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We landed. Man, oh, man is this place gorgeous. We met Augustino and Antony from Jane Goodall Institute as we waited for the two pieces of luggage they let us take with us. Augustino and Antony are really great guys. Gabriel and instantly mellowed due to their extremely calm demeanor. I can tell I’m going to relax here…believe it or not.

We sat in the Jeep and discussed the week. Then, we took off toward town. Kigoma is nestled in the coastal valley by Gombe Forest (I am sitting on my deck now looking at both). The ground is deep red (just like the landing strip here…no tarmac, just mud!). It is lush and beautiful. We went into town and it reminded me so much of Gambella, except this place is on a wonderful lake. Town is bustling with beautiful people. Most of the roads are rutted and un-paved. Poverty is a huge problem here. So is disease, and lack of education. Because I had no clothing or supplies, we walked through the crowded and cramped dirt alleyways to the miniscule 4’ by 5’ stalls. One man had pants for sale, hanging on the wall. Done. One had a great African shirt. Done. One had socks, underwear, and shoes. All this for under $60. We rode through town and Gabriel filmed when he could (some restrictions I won’t mention here). We stopped by a roadside stall crammed with everything from batteries to aspirin. I bought a toothbrush, toothpaste, and batteries for our cameras. Our hotel rests on a high hill overlooking town and the lake. We have little bungalows and patios. Oh, and the gardens are beyond compare. I’ll take photos tomorrow.
We’re off to a kick-off dinner with local dignitaries AND our students. I SO wish Andy and Jamie were here. Our students are in secondary school, but range in age from 16 to 20 as they go to school later and longer here. We’re making films about the perils of the bushmeat trade. I’ll have much more to say tomorrow after our first day, and when our long-lost friends arrive.

This place is definitely third-world in many ways, and I’m sure our photos will paint that picture for you. That said, It sure feels like home and I wouldn’t want to be any place else in the world today.
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Just back from the kick-off dinner at the Jane Goodall Institute building in town. It is situated right on the lake. The white-washed walls are offset with a red tile roof. We met many of the Jane Goodall program managers (Roots & Shoots, Takecare). 25 of the students were there. I gave them all cameras to play with and, as always, they beamed over the Flip cameras. They had a blast. They are indeed between 16 and 20 and all still in secondary school. They could not have been more polite or inquisitive. This is going to be an amazing week. They wanted to know all about the computers and cameras right away. They asked us sincere and heartfelt questions. One boy I spoke to told me that he was still in school at 20 because he has to pay 10,000 shillings ($8) twice a year to go to school. He is orphaned and lives with his uncle. They can’t afford the tuition and uniform, so he quits school to work, then goes back when he has enough money to pay the headmaster. He sat right by me as I set up my computer and projector for the presentation, asking questions about everything I was doing. They are so eager. The language will be a problem, but we have twice as much time with this group as others. We go from 8:30am to 4:30pm every day. We go to Gombe on Wednesday.
We had the introductions, then at a scrumptious meal of rice, bbq chicken, spicy beef, fried bananas, and a very spicy sauce to go on top. I was in heaven.

Andy and Gabriel should be here tomorrow morning by Noon. I am writing this last paragraph in my bed under the mosquito netting and looking at the moon over the lake. There is only one shack in town that has Internet, so our blogging will be sporadic this week…if at all! (I guess if you’re reading this it means I found a spot.)

Off to bed.E


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Morning at the Kigoma Hilltop Hotel

O.K. I know this is a long blog entry, but I’ve a feeling Internet will be splotchy here, so I’ll just keep going.

Slept very well after our evening with the kids. There is a full mosquito net on the four poster bed in my room. I keep striving for balance in life, but these situations where you pass by dire poverty, then find yourself in the best hotel ($60/night) with logos on the crockery and cutlery make me shake my head a bit. A student asked Gabriel for some help figuring out (oops power just went out again, for the third time this morning…we’re going to have to make sure those kids save their work on the computers every five minutes), how to get a bicycle so that he could get to school easily. He lives in a small village and has to get up at 4:00am to walk.

So I had an orange Fanta last night but there was no opener. So, I used the end of a flash drive to pop it open and it sprayed all over the one pair of clothing I have for today. I went to the bathroom, grabbed a towel, and cleaned myself and the floor. When I went back to the bathroom, I realized that that was the only towel. I called the front desk, but there was no way to open the door to the “towel room”. So, I rinsed it out and hung it to dry in the humid air. This morning, I go up, brushed my teeth with the 30-cent brush I bought on the street (the brissles came out as I was doing so), washed my face with soap, and dried myself with and orange Fanta and dirt encrusted sopping wet towel. Love it!

We’re off to teach the kids today and PRAY that Andy and Jaime get here today. The kids have very limited computer skills, so I think we’ll start with a lesson on how to use the mouse. The good news is that they’re very keen, and very eager to learn.

It is so great to be in Kigoma. I feel honored to be at the Jane Goodall Institute. I keep thinking about how young Jane found her serendipitous moment with Louis Leakey who asked her to come to Kigoma to study the chimps in Gombe. It took her forever to get here (like Andy and Jaime, but in a much more rudimentary way), and she had nothing when she was here. The fact that I get to go stand on the spot where she had her camp and where she first saw chimps using tools to get at the termites for a yummy snack is quite unbelievable.

Hoping to get to the one Internet café this afternoon.
E

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